
KULASEKHARAPATTINAM, A nondescript village in Tiruchendur Taluk, is 55km south of Tuticorin, on the East coast road, en route to Kanyakumari with its immaculate beach line studded with casuarinas and palmyra groves.
This littoral village, shorn of its past glory and grandeur, stands as a mute witness to the cruel fate of time.
The incurvation of the Gulf of Mannar at this point, flanked by projected landscape into the sea on both sides, made it a natural harbour. On the southern side lies the fishing hamlet Manapadu where Christian missionaries carried on their work in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. On the Northern side stands Tiruchendur, the abode of Lord Muruga.
The light house of Manapadu and the Tower light of Tiruchendur stand magnificently tall searing the skyline.
Up to the end of nineteenth century it was a hub of activity and the economy flourished in the harbour when Tuticorin was lagging behind. Now with efflux of time it looks deserted. "Pattanam" has been transfigured into "Pattinam". Everything has gone but the vestige remains. During the Freedom Struggle, sometime in September 1942, in an exceptionable incident, a young British officer, William Lonie by name, was assassinated while on duty. His cemetery still exists. The sensational "Kulasekharapattanam conspiracy case" went up to the Privy Council of London, the highest appellate authority during colonial period. The incident took a heavy toll. The disfigured village is the standing testimony to the after effects.
Nevertheless, of late the village is gaining recognition for its annual Dasara Festival that is second only to the festival in Mysore. There is no Royal patronage and the entire festivity veers round the presiding deity Sri Mutharamman. Devotees from the length and breadth of Tamil Nadu make converge on the place during the period to solicit Her blessings.
The 10-day festival begins on New moon day and ends on Vijayadasami. During the festival, Devi assumes different forms such as Parvathi, Saraswathi, Lakshmi and Durga, and pujas are offered with utmost piety. Vijayadasami is the culmination of the celebrations. On this auspicious day the Goddess Mutharamman and Sri Gnanamurtheswarar, are enthroned together to bless the devotees.
Following an age-old tradition, devotees vow to go from house to house to beg for alms, disguised in various celestial forms such as Kali, Siva, Vishnu and Narada. Even animal forms such as monkey, lion, tiger and bear are not exempted. Some devotees transform themselves into mundane figures such as policemen, "narikuravars" and beggars during the festival, and roam with begging bowls, to propitiate the Goddess. At times it would be difficult to differentiate between the "reals" and the make-believes. The bickering beggar could turn out to be your best friend in masquerade! The uniqueness and oddity of the festival is that the devotees need not shell out from their pockets. The alms collected will take care of them and it is enough if a portion is offered. Virtually devotees from all villages have their own funds earmarked for the festival. The multitude of "bakthas" in their chosen fancy dresses thronging the seashore, exhibiting their antics accomplished by the sound of music and glow of light on this appointed day turns out to be a veritable carnival. It is the festival of communal harmony surpassing the barriers of religion, caste and social status.
With such festivity and gaiety all around "Soorasamharam" — slaying of Mahishasooran — by Sakthi takes place. Dharma wins. The evil thoughts and deeds of devotees will be wiped off once and for all, they believe. More than 10 lakh devotees assemble on the shores of this otherwise quiet village to witness the episode year after year. The temple is under the control of the H.R. and C.E. Department. The whole village wakes up once a year and then relapses into atrophied stupor for the remaining days. With this year's Dasara round the corner the village will rise once again with its attendant jamboree.


1 comments:
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